Free tool

The right pot, for your plant and your habits

Five questions, four of them about you. Free, no signup — and if your plant does not need repotting yet, this will say so.

Why a pot deserves its own tool

A leaf is a report on the roots

By the time the leaves say something is wrong, it went wrong underground, weeks earlier. You never get to watch the roots. You only get to choose the four things that decide what happens to them.

Pot
How much water they sit in
Mix
How much air is left between them
Light
How fast the plant drinks it
Watering
How often you fill it back up

Four parts of one system — which is why this asks about you, not only about the plant. And the pot gets its own tool because it is the one you cannot walk back: mix can be amended, a plant can be moved to a brighter wall, watering can change this week. The pot is bought once, and everything else has to work inside it.

So — what are you growing?

1 What are you potting?

No idea what it is? That is normal. Find the leaf below instead — they are grouped by what the roots do.

Shallow fibrous Fine roots that stay near the surface 8 plants · Azalea pot — three-quarter depth
Spreading rhizome Creeps sideways on a thick underground stem 2 plants · Wide and low — well under azalea depth
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Thick roots that grew on bark or rock, not in soil 14 plants · Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume
Tuberous / water-storing Keeps its own water in a tuber underground 4 plants · Standard depth — but snug across
Deep anchoring Few thick roots heading straight down 5 plants · Full depth, and heavy
Shallow succulent Shallow roots that drink fast, then dry right out 4 plants · Low and wide — two-thirds depth
2 What pot is it in now?

Drawn to scale — measure across the top of your pot, rim to rim.

3 Why do you think it needs repotting?
4 How do you water, honestly?
5 Where does it live?

Three things worth knowing before you buy anything

A pot that is too big is the harder mistake to undo

Roots do not fill a pot evenly and instantly. Soil they have not reached yet holds water with nothing drinking it, and roots sitting next to permanently wet soil run out of oxygen. That is what people are usually describing when they say a plant was overwatered — the pot was doing as much of it as the watering can. One size up at a time is not caution, it is the whole method.

The gravel layer at the bottom does not help

Water does not cross from fine soil into coarse gravel until the soil above is fully saturated. Adding a gravel layer raises the wet zone instead of draining it, and costs you root space. What actually drains a pot is a hole in it and a mix with enough coarse material through the whole volume.

A decorative pot with no drainage hole is a vase

You can still use one — keep the plant in a plain nursery pot and set that inside the decorative one, then lift it out to water and let it finish dripping before it goes back. That is what a cachepot is. What does not work is planting directly into a sealed pot of ordinary potting mix and watering carefully — no amount of care substitutes for an exit. (Semi-hydro setups in LECA or pumice do work in a sealed reservoir, but that is a different growing method, not a careful version of this one.)

Reference

Root systems and the pot shape each one wants

Shape comes from the roots alone — it is the one part of the answer your habits do not change.

Diagram Root system Pot shape Why
Shallow fibrous
Fine roots that stay near the surface
Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Fine, dense roots that work through the top of the pot rather than diving. A pot much deeper than it is wide leaves soil underneath them that stays wet longer than the roots ever reach.
Spreading rhizome
Creeps sideways on a thick underground stem
Wide and low — well under azalea depth Grows outward from a horizontal rhizome. It runs out of width long before it runs out of depth, and can split a pot doing it.
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted
Thick roots that grew on bark or rock, not in soil
Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Thick, ropey roots that evolved to grip bark or rock, not to sit in soil. Air around them matters more than how much soil they get. Climbing aroids, epiphytic anthuriums and bird's-nest ferns all want the same thing from a pot.
Tuberous / water-storing
Keeps its own water in a tuber underground
Standard depth — but snug across Carries its own water reserve in a tuber or thick fleshy roots. It can shrug off a dry pot. It cannot survive a permanently wet one.
Deep anchoring
Few thick roots heading straight down
Full depth, and heavy Thick anchoring roots that use the whole depth of a pot rather than the top few inches. What keeps one of these upright is the weight of the pot and the width of its base, not how tall the pot is — a tall narrow pot actually tips more easily.
Shallow succulent
Shallow roots that drink fast, then dry right out
Low and wide — two-thirds depth Fine surface roots built to catch a brief rain and then dry out completely within a day or two.

Every plant in the tool

37 plants so far. Starter size is what to use for a rooted cutting or a bare-root plant, before any of the questions above apply.

Plant Root system Pot shape Rot risk Starter size
African mask plant
Alocasia × amazonica 'Polly'
Tuberous / water-storing Standard depth — but snug across High 4 in · 10 cm
Aloe
Aloe vera
Shallow succulent Low and wide — two-thirds depth High 5 in · 13 cm
Angel wings
Caladium bicolor
Tuberous / water-storing Standard depth — but snug across High 5 in · 13 cm
Arrowhead vine
Syngonium podophyllum
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Low 4 in · 10 cm
Baby rubber plant
Peperomia obtusifolia
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth High 3 in · 8 cm
Bird's nest fern
Asplenium nidus
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 5 in · 13 cm
Birkin
Philodendron 'Birkin'
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 4 in · 10 cm
Boston fern
Nephrolepis exaltata
Spreading rhizome Wide and low — well under azalea depth Low 6 in · 15 cm
Calathea orbifolia
Goeppertia orbifolia
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Medium 5 in · 13 cm
Chinese money plant
Pilea peperomioides
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Medium 4 in · 10 cm
Dragon tree
Dracaena marginata
Deep anchoring Full depth, and heavy Medium 6 in · 15 cm
Echeveria
Echeveria spp.
Shallow succulent Low and wide — two-thirds depth High 3 in · 8 cm
Fiddle leaf fig
Ficus lyrata
Deep anchoring Full depth, and heavy Medium 6 in · 15 cm
Flamingo flower
Anthurium andraeanum
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume High 5 in · 13 cm
Giant bird of paradise
Strelitzia nicolai
Deep anchoring Full depth, and heavy Medium 8 in · 20 cm
Heartleaf philodendron
Philodendron hederaceum
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Low 4 in · 10 cm
Jade plant
Crassula ovata
Shallow succulent Low and wide — two-thirds depth High 4 in · 10 cm
Mini monstera
Rhaphidophora tetrasperma
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 5 in · 13 cm
Money tree
Pachira aquatica
Deep anchoring Full depth, and heavy Medium 6 in · 15 cm
Nerve plant
Fittonia albivenis
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Low 3 in · 8 cm
Peace lily
Spathiphyllum wallisii
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Low 5 in · 13 cm
Pink Princess
Philodendron 'Pink Princess'
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 4 in · 10 cm
Polka dot begonia
Begonia maculata
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Medium 4 in · 10 cm
Pothos
Epipremnum aureum
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Low 4 in · 10 cm
Prayer plant
Maranta leuconeura
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Low 4 in · 10 cm
Rubber plant
Ficus elastica
Deep anchoring Full depth, and heavy Medium 6 in · 15 cm
Silver satin pothos
Scindapsus pictus
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 4 in · 10 cm
Snake plant
Dracaena trifasciata
Spreading rhizome Wide and low — well under azalea depth High 4 in · 10 cm
Spider plant
Chlorophytum comosum
Shallow fibrous Azalea pot — three-quarter depth Low 4 in · 10 cm
Swiss cheese plant
Monstera deliciosa
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 6 in · 15 cm
Swiss cheese vine
Monstera adansonii
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 5 in · 13 cm
Thai Constellation
Monstera deliciosa 'Thai Constellation'
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume Medium 5 in · 13 cm
Velvet cardboard anthurium
Anthurium clarinervium
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume High 4 in · 10 cm
Wax plant
Hoya carnosa
Epiphytic / coarse-rooted Just under standard depth — prioritise airflow over volume High 4 in · 10 cm
Zebra alocasia
Alocasia zebrina
Tuberous / water-storing Standard depth — but snug across High 5 in · 13 cm
Zebra haworthia
Haworthiopsis attenuata
Shallow succulent Low and wide — two-thirds depth High 3 in · 8 cm
ZZ plant
Zamioculcas zamiifolia
Tuberous / water-storing Standard depth — but snug across High 5 in · 13 cm

We grow the plants we drew this for

This tool came out of potting our own collection, and the reasoning it shows you is the reasoning we use on our own shelf. The journal reports what those plants actually do every two weeks, mistakes included. Nothing is for sale.

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